One of the most common and often discussed skin concerns is acne. We previously explored how to treat acne and congestion, focusing on achieving balanced, settled skin.

We were prompted to write another article on this topic thanks to the metaphorical grey cloud looming over us in the midst of hazy summer warmth. Acne prefers more temperate weather, and heat can cause excess sebum and clogged pores. Because of this, we are always inundated with acne-related questions over the summer months, so if you are suffering, rest assured you are not alone.

Without further ado, let’s take a scientific journey to understand the hormonal triggers of acne and the Biologique Recherche regime we recommend for acne-prone skin.

Understanding Hormones and the Skin

There are certain periods of life that lead to fluctuations in hormone levels. When female hormones (oestrogen) are low and male hormones (testosterone) are higher, sebum secretion in the skin increases.

The greatest secretion occurs during periods of transformation, including puberty, menstrual cycles, pregnancy, and menopause. Conditions such as Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS) are also linked to hormonal imbalance, which can show on the skin.

Sebaceous glands form at the hair follicles and secrete sebum (an oily substance) into the follicle. Muscle contractions push sebum from the follicle toward the skin’s surface. When too much sebum is produced, bacteria reproduce, pores become blocked, and inflammation appears as red, infected spots. Skin cells can also stick together, creating a plug that prevents normal sebum flow.

Acne tends to appear across the chin, jawline, neck, and upper back. It may present as blackheads and congestion in earlier stages, and as larger inflamed spots in later stages.

When infection goes deeper into the skin, cystic acne occurs. You will usually see a red, tender cyst full of pus under the surface. It is very important not to pop it, as this can spread infection further.

Our Suggested Skincare Routine

Let’s explore a routine suitable for acne-prone skin, concentrating on regulating sebum secretion while calming and protecting the skin. For every skin type, we need to maintain a balance between hydration (water), lipids (oils), and protection (antioxidants), and this is no different for acne-prone and congested skin.

Good things come to those who wait. Skin needs time to regenerate when being treated. An epidermal cycle tends to last around 25 days, so we need about two cycles (around two months) to really work on the skin. Results won’t happen overnight, but we should not abandon the journey halfway.

Step One: Cleansing

Skin with acne has clogged pores infected with bacteria. Many of us were once advised to use astringent-heavy cleansers that left skin feeling squeaky clean. Although astringents can clean pores, they may irritate acne-prone skin and trigger more sebum secretion.

We recommend the gentle milk cleanser Biologique Recherche Lait U, formulated for oily and sensitive skin. It preserves the skin barrier and protective layer and has a light texture that does not leave an oily film.

Step Two: Exfoliation

The next step is Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W. This acid exfoliant contains AHAs and BHAs and can be used daily to resurface skin, tighten pores, decrease oil secretion, and improve congestion. We do not recommend using this on active acne, save it for when irritation has settled. When skin is calmer, it is ideal for unbalanced skin and includes arnica for a gentler approach.

For deep cystic acne, the product needs to work harder and penetrate deeper, so we recommend Lotion P50.

Step Three: Masking

If skin is inflamed with acne, Biologique Recherche Biomagic Mask is gentle but powerful. One of the most popular masks in the range, it is rich in white clay to purify and mattify skin. Use for 20 minutes several times a week.

When acne is not irritated or inflamed, Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant is the more potent option. It combines yeast, cucumber, and lactic acid to control oil, reduce bacteria, and detoxify skin, leaving it mattified, revitalised, and with minimised pores.

Step Four: Serums

Serums are uniquely formulated with smaller molecules that penetrate quickly. Biologique Recherche serums are especially flexible, and you can cocktail up to four to deliver what your skin needs.

Biologique Recherche Complexe Iribiol contains salicylic acid, making it excellent for regulating sebum secretion and supporting anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial action.

Complexe Iribiol can be drying, so pair it with hydration. We recommend combining it with Biologique Recherche Serum Amniotique VG, which is deeply hydrating, non-comedogenic, and oil-free.

Step Five: Cream

For morning use, Biologique Recherche Creme Iso-Placenta is light and non-comedogenic, while helping to heal imperfections and visible damage over time for a more unified complexion.

For evening use, Biologique Recherche Creme Dermopurifiante is a purging cream that regulates sebum, purifies skin, tightens pores, and reduces inflammation. Because it purges, use it at night, then cleanse with Lait U in the morning.

For cystic acne, this is not ideal because infection sits deeper in the skin. In those cases, the light Emulsion Gel Biosensible helps regulate sebum while calming and protecting weakened, sensitive skin.

We have covered the main products recommended for oily and unbalanced skin. But every skin is different, so always consult a skin professional for personalised advice.

You can also take our online Skin Analysis, which uses an innovative algorithm to understand your concerns and prescribe products based on your answers.

Alternatively, call us on 020 3358 9997 or email us at concierge@embassyofbeauty.co.uk.